Shoe and process of making same



Nov. 27, 1934. A. J. BRAUER Er Al.

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME Filed April 25., 1932 Patented Nov.y 27, 1934 f UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE AND PROCESS F MAKING SAME ApplicationAprl 25, 1932, Serial N0. 607,248

l. 10 Claims.

'I'his invention relates generally to the manufacture of shoes and particularly to a process of making so-called drop top or inseam pumps.

In the manufacture of so-called drop top or blind seamed pumps considerable dimculty has heretofore been experienced in the tendency of the upper materials to tear or break in the region of the forward end of the throat. This is due principally to the presence of tremendous strains in this region due particularly to the manner of assembling and stitching the upper materials and the fact that the upper materials are turned after stitching in such a manner as to present the connecting seam between the lining and outside upper on the interior of the throat. In the `subsequent'lasting and ironing operations which are necessary to conform the upper to the shape of the last tremendous strains are set up about the throat and particularly in the forward zo portion thereof. These strains often result in the occurrence of breaks or ilssures during the manufacturing operations, but sometimes do not appear until later. The presence of these strains has rendered this type of shoe unpopular from the manufacturing standpoint and has resulted in a relatively high price due to the relatively f large proportion of waste.

It is among the objects of the present invention to provide a blind seamed or drop top pump and the process for making the same whereby the disadvantages heretofore encountered will be obviated. v t A further object of this invention is to provide a blind seam pump so constructed and reenforced as to prevent the deleterious effect of the severe strainswhich are set up during manufacture. f f

A more specific object of this invention lis to present a drop top or blind seamed pump and a process of making the same whereby a reenforcing member is provided to that portion of the shoe which generally suffers from those strains and in such a manner as to prevent the occurrence of breaks or fissures in the upper material. Other objects will become apparent to those skilled in the art when the following description is read in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which: Figure l is a detail view of a piece of upper material having a reenforcing member applied theretoin accordance with the present invention.

Figure 2 is a perspective view showing the piece of upper material in Figure 1 in assembled relation to the other pieces of material which comprise a shoe upper.

Figure 3 is a detail view corresponding to Figure 1 but showing a modified form of the invention.

Figure 4 is a perspective view of an assembled shoe upper constructed in accordance with the present invention and ready to be lasted.

Figure 5 is a sectional view taken through the toe portion of a drop top or inseam pump conc5 structed in accordance with this invention and showing a reenforcement applied in accordance with the present invention.

In accordance with the present invention a reenforcing member which may be for' instance 70 a cording, such as of Irish linen and having suf- `flcient strength to withstand the tremendous strains set up in the forward end of the throat, is arranged to bear the strains and thus prevent breakage of the upper. .The cording is preferably applied to a piece of upper material around that portion of the throat of the shoe which suers the severest strains. In accordance with the preferredembodiment of the present invention such a reenforcing member is preferably applied independently of the means employed forsecuring the respective pieces of upper mate- -rial in assembled relation. This is of particular importance since the reenforcing member will be caused to suffer the major portions of'the 85 strains to which the upper materials are subject during lasting and ironing operations and this will inevitably cause some slight stretching or displacement of the reenforcement relative to the adjacent upper materials. It is preferable, therefore, that the reenforcement be secured to the upper materials by means such as a line of stitching which is not employed for connecting the upper materials together. When a shoe is constructed in this manner slight displacement of the reenforcement relative to the'upper materials will not affect/the connecting seam between the respective pieces of upper materials f and the shoe will remain intact with the reenforcement bearing suiiicient of the strains to prevent deleterious effect upon the upper.

Referring now particularly to Figures 1, 2, 4 and 5 for an illustrative embodiment of this invention a reenforcement lwhich maybe formed of any suitable cord-like material, such for instance as Irish linen` and being of substantial strength may be suitably secured as by a line of stitching 2 passing through the body thereof and connecting the same with'a piece of upper materialsuch as alining 3. The reenforcement 1 is preferably applied to that portion of the upper which is subject to the severest strains. In the case of a dr'op top or inseam pumps these severe strains are generally encountered about the throat and particularly in the forward region thereof. Accordingly as illustrated in Figure 1 the reenforcement 1 is stitched to the throat margin of the lining 3 adjacent the forward portion thereof. Since it is desirable to conceal the reenforcement between the upper materials of the finally formed shoe and since in the manufacture of drop top or inseam pumps the upper materials after being assembled and secured together are invaginated, it is preferable that the reenforcement 1 be stitched or otherwise secured to the fiesh side of the lining 3.

After the lining 3 has been provided with a suitable reenforcement 1 it may be assembled with the other upper materials which may comprise an outside upper 4 and a doubler 5 if desired. In accordance with the usual practice in the manufacturing of drop top or blind seamed pumps the lining 3 is assembled with its grain side or the side corresponding thereto, contiguous to the grain side of the outside upper 4. With the upper material thus assembled the same may be secured together by any suitable means such as stitching 6A extending about the throat. In accordance with the present invention the line of stitching 6 preferably does not penetrate the reenforcement 1, but is independent thereof and free of the strains which are to be suffered by the reenforcement 1. It is preferable that the line of stitching 6 extend along the throat margin of the upper materials substantially close to the reenforcement 1, and in the illustrative embodiment is shown as eX- tending along the inside edge of the reenforcement 1 which is that edge of the reenforcement most remote from the throat margin of the upper materials. After the upper materials are thus assembled and secured together the same may be invaginated by turning or pulling the lining 3 inwardly through the throat of the shoe and thus exposing on the exterior, the grain side of the outside upper material 4. Upon the completion of this operation the upper will conform substantially to the shape illustrated in Figure 4 where the outside upper 4 is shown on the exterior and the position of the lining 3 on the interior illustrated in dotted lines. When the materials are thus invaginated the connecting seam, which in the illustrative embodiment is formed by the line of stitching 6, appears on the interior of the throat as is shown in Figure 5 and the reenforcement 1 is enveloped by the upper materials 4 and 3. It is apparent that when the materials are turned into the final position illustrated in Figure 5, the grain side of the outside upper is exposed on the exterior and the grain side of the lining 3 is exposed on the interior of the shoe, while the reenforcement 1 is enveloped by the upper materials and maintained within a bead along the throat.

In Figure 3 there is illustrated a modified form of the invention wherein the reenforcement 10 is applied by a line of stitching 11 in the same manner as hereinbefore described. In Figure 3, however, the reenforcement 10 extends as a loop entirely around the throat margin of a piece of upper material. It'may be pointed out that the reenforcement in this embodiment as Well as in the embodiment previously described may be applied either to the lining or to the outside' upper material but preferably to the former. When the reenforcement 10 is applied tothe lining 3 as illustrated in Figure 3 the lining may then be assembled with the other upper materials and the same procedure hereinbefore described followed.

From the foregoing description it is apparent that the invention accomplishes its objects and that a drop top or blind seamed pump is Vprovided with a reenforcement so disposed as to bear the severe strains to which the upper materials are subject during the forming and lasting operations.

Furthermore it is apparent that many modifications of the shoe and the process of making the same will occur to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the present invention. It is to be distinctly understood therefore, that the invention shall not be limited to the specific details and procedures which have been referred to.hereinbefore and illustrated in the accompanying drawing. Such modifications and the 4use of such individual features and subcombination of individual features which do not depart from this invention are, although not specifically described herein, contemplated by and within the scope of appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. In the art of making shoes the process com. prising, securing a reenforcement to the throat margin of an upper lining on the flesh side thereof, placing the grain side of the lining in contiguous relation to the grain side of the outside upper material at the throat margin, and securing the marginal portions of the outside upper material and lining together at the throat independently of the reenforcement.

2. In the art of making shoes the process comprising, securing a reenforcement to the throat margin of an upper lining, aligning an outside upper with the lining and stitching the same adjacent the edge of the reenforcement remote from the margin of the upper materials, and invaginating the upper and lining.

3. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, securing a reenforcement to the throat margin of an upper lining, aligning an outside upper with the lining, and stitching the lining and outside upper together by a row of stitching adjacent the side of the reenforcement remote from the margin of the upper material, and invaginating the upper pieces.

4. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, securing a reenforcement to the forward part of the throat margin of a piece of upper material, securing the piece of upper material to another piece of upper material independently of the reenforcement but with the reenforcement on the exterior thereof, and invaginating the upper materials.

5. In the art of making shoes, the process comprising, securing a reenforcing loop to the throat margin of a piece of upper material, securing the piece of upper material to another piece of upper material independently of the loop but with the loop on the exterior thereof, and invaginating the upper material.

6. A blind seam pump comprising, a pluralityof pieces of upper material and having a reenforcement extending about the throat and stitched to a piece of upper material, and securing means for connecting assembled upper materials together adjacent to but independently of the reenforcement.

'7.\ A blind seam pump comprising, a plurality of pieces of upper material and having a reenforcement extending about the throat margin ofa piece of upper material, a line of stitching extending adjacent the reenforcement on the side remote from the throat margin of the piece of upper material for connecting assembled upper materials together, said upper materials being invaginated to position the line of stitching exteriorly of the reenforcement.

8. A blind seam pump comprising a plurality 9. A blind seam pump comprising a plurality of pieces of upper material and having a reenforcing loop extending about the throat margin of a piece of upper material, aline of stitching extending adjacent the re'enforcing loop on the side remote from the throat margin of the piece of upper material for connecting assembled upper materials together, said upper materials being invaginated to position the line of stitching exterior-1y of the reenforcing loop.

10. In the art of making pumps the process comprising, forming upper material of a shape such that the closed unlasted upper will be substantially funnel-shaped, securing a reenforcement to the upper adjacent the forward part of the pump opening, securing another piece of up-` per material thereto independently of the reenforcement, and invaginating the respective pieces of upper material to envelop the reenforcement.

ARTHUR J. BRAUER. FREDERICK P. WAGNER. 

